Great Peruvian Food by the Bay

San Francisco may have more Peruvian restaurants per capita than any city outside of Peru.  Last September, I wrote about Limón Rotisserie, a casual offshoot of Limón, the first upscale Peruvian place in San Francisco.  This past weekend, I finally ate at La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, which opened over a year ago at Pier 1 1/2 on The Embarcadero north of the Ferry Building.  La Mar is the first U.S. effort from Peruvian chef Gaston Acurio.  (He also has restaurants in Lima, Mexico City, Santiago, São Paulo, and Panama City.)

When you walk into the space, you are immediately struck by the size, wondering if the restaurant will be unbearably noisy and if the kitchen can successfully service so many tables.  While La Mar is noisy, I've been to far louder restaurants in San Francisco.  The kitchen does a great job of turning out small and large plates of terrific seafood.  While we were still looking over the menu, we were treated to chips made from white potato, sweet potato, and plantain accompanied by 4 dipping sauces.

Being big ceviche fans, we went for the tasting of 4 cebiches, all of which were terrific.  Just watch out for the peppers.  They pack a punch.  Until this meal, we'd never heard of causas: whipped potatoes and yellow garlic topped with seafood and/or vegetables.  Again we went for the sampler of 4 and loved each one.  We also tried the sampler of 4 empanadas.  While tasty, these were the least interesting of the small plates.

We shared two main courses among us, a seafood saltado and the tuna dish.  The saltado consisted of a variety of stir fried seafood and vegetables topped with French fries and served with rice.  The tuna was seared, topped with a sesame sauce and served over mashed purple potatoes.  Both were delicious.

Being gluttons, we also shared two desserts.  The dulce de leche mousse was too sweet for any of us but the buñuelos de chocolate caliente, warm beignets filled with warm chocolate sauce, were terrific.

We stuck to wine with our meal and were able to select from a good list of California, South American, and Spanish wines.  The cocktail list featured drinks with pisco, a grape liqueur that first arrived in San Francisco in the 19th century.

If you like seafood and interesting spices and preparations, then I highly recommend you visit.  I'll go back when the weather warms up so I can dine outside on the terrace overlooking San Francisco Bay.

Cozy French Restaurant

I frequently get asked about good French restaurants in San Francisco.  There are well known, upscale French restaurants where you can easily spend over $150/person for dinner.  However, when I think of the type of neighborhood bistro that I've enjoyed in France, I immediately think of my neighborhood French restaurant, Le P'tit Laurent.

The restaurant is located in the Glen Park neighborhood of San Francisco, just one block from Glen Park BART.  Visitors staying near Union Square can take BART from Powell or Montgomery Street to the Glen Park station and walk one block north on Diamond Street.  The ride is less than 15 minutes each way and currently costs $3.50 round-trip.

The owner, Laurent Legendre, is originally from Paris.  When we visited the restaurant shortly after it opened, Laurent recognized us as soon as we walked in.  How, I don't know, as we only visited his old restaurant, Clementine, a few times and he had left it a few years ago.

The menu contains French classics such as onion soup, escargot, boeuf Bourguignon, coquilles Saint-Jacques, and cassoulet.  Prices are reasonable and, from Monday through Thursday, there is a three-course, prix-fixed neighborhood menu for $21/person.  The wine list contains reasonably priced French and Californian wines.

Le P'tit Laurent is a real neighborhood place frequented mainly by locals.  It's a great place for visitors as they get to see a part of San Francisco they normally would not visit and eat some good French food at a reasonable price.

Coffee in San Francisco

San Francisco has a rich coffee history going back to the Gold Rush and the founding of Folgers Coffee in 1859 and Hills Brothers in1878. These companies are now parts of large corporations with their connections to San Francisco only a distant memory. Nevertheless, we take our coffee pretty seriously in San Francisco. While there seems to be a Starbucks on every corner, try some of our local purveyors during your visit to the city.

Peet's Coffee was founded by Alfred Peet in 1966 in Berkeley. Peet was born in the Netherlands and was appalled by the quality of American coffee. When he opened his store, he took coffee to a new level. Today, Peet's is a small chain with locations throughout California and a few other states. You can't walk too far in San Francisco without running into a Peet's.

North Beach is home to many coffee houses where you can get excellent espresso drinks. Two of my favorites are Caffe Roma, 526 Columbus Ave. and Caffe Trieste, 601 Trieste. If you are in the market for coffee beans, check out Graffeo Coffee, 735 Columbus Avenue.

Blue Bottle Coffee is known for its small lots of organic coffee. Espresso drinks and individually dripped cups of coffee are available at the cafe at 66 Mint Street (near Fifth and Mission Streets) and the small kiosk at 315 Linden Street in Hayes Valley.

Philz Coffee offers more than 20 varieties of individually dripped cups of coffee. Philz has four locations in San Francisco: the original 3101 Folsom (@ 24th St. in the Mission District), 201 Berry Street (near AT&T Park), 4023 18th St. (Castro District), and 748 Van Ness Avenue (Civic Center)

Ritual Coffee Roasters is just four years old but offers its hand roasted coffee at 1026 Valencia St. (Mission District) and 1634 Jerrold Avenue (Bayview District). There are also independent cafes that serve Ritual's coffee. To find them, visit Ritual's website.

Of course, there are many more coffee roasters in San Francisco. During one of your strolls through the city, stop and sample one of our local brews. If you would like to take a private tour of San Francisco that visits some of our local coffee shops, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or by clicking here.

Best Restaurants in San Francisco - 2009/2010

The new "Zagat 2010 Bay Area Restaurants" and "The Michelin Guide San Francisco, Bay Area, and Wine Country Restaurants 2010" were recently released. So it's time for Blue Heron's annual summary of the critics' choices for the best restaurants in San Francisco and the Bay Area.

Zagat's list of the five most popular restaurants includes Gary Danko, Boulevard, The French Laundry (Yountville, Napa Valley), The Slanted Door, and Chez Panisse (Berkeley). The top rated for food are Gary Danko, Cyrus (Healdsburg), and The French Laundry with 29 points. Kiss Seafood, Acquerello, La Folie, Masa's, Erna's Elderberry House (Oakhurst, south of Yosemite National Park), Kaygetsu (Menlo Park), Chez Panisse, Sushi Ran (Sausalito), and Coi received 28 points. All restaurants are in San Francisco unless otherwise noted.

Once again, Michelin awarded three stars to only one restaurant in the Bay Area: the French Laundry in Yountville in the Napa Valley. Two stars were awarded to Cyrus in Healdsburg, Coi in San Francisco, Manresa in Los Gatos, and the Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena in the Napa Valley. Former two-star restaurants Aqua and Michael Mina lost two and one stars respectively. Thirty-four restaurants in the Bay Area received one star.

The "San Francisco Chronicle" awards four stars to the top restaurants. Current recipients are Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Cyrus in Healdsburg, Manresa in Los Gatos, the French Laundry in Yountville, and Coi, La Folie, Michael Mina, and The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in San Francisco.

While I have not dined at all of these restaurants, I did return to Gary Danko a few months ago and it remains my favorite in San Francisco.

Come to San Francisco and you'll have a chance to pick your favorite. Be sure to make your reservations well in advance as these top restaurants frequently well in advance. If you wait until the last minute, you may not be able to get a table or may have to dine at 5:30 or 10:00 p.m.

One Alley - Two Restaurants

Last post I wrote about Belden Place, a block-long alley with eight restaurants. Less than a block away from Belden Place is Claude Lane. This block-long alley is just west of Kearny running between Bush and Sutter.

Café Claude and Gitane not only share the alley, but also have the same owners as well as both indoor and outdoor dining. Café Claude serves French cuisine and feels like a Parisian cafe. Many French classics such as salade Niçoise and coq au van grace the menu. Café Claude has live jazz from 7:30 - 10:30 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. The restaurant is open for dinner nightly and for lunch daily except Sunday. Café Claude features a happy hour from 4:00 until 6:00 p.m from Monday through Saturday.

Gitane serves food with influences from the Basque region of Spain and France and has a more modern feel to it. Here you can dine on chicken or vegetable tajine, paella, and other tasty dishes. It's easy to make a meal by sampling a couple of appetizers. Gitane is open for dinner from Tuesday through Saturday. You can dine until midnight or hang out at the bar until 1:00 a.m.

If you're staying near Union Square, atop Nob Hill, or in the Financial District, both Claude Lane and Belden Place are a short walk from your hotel.

One Alley - Eight Restaurants

Many of my guests prefer not to make advance reservations for dinner and can't decide what type of food they want. I usually suggest they visit Belden Place, a block-long alley, not far from Union Square and Nob Hill, that is home to eight restaurants. Here you can find restaurants serving American, French, Italian, French seafood, Italian seafood, Mediterranean, and Catalan food. Most of the restaurants feature both indoor and outdoor dining. Don't worry too much about the cold as the alley blocks the wind and heat-lamps keep the tables warm.

As you walk down the alley, friendly staff will be quick to show you her/his restaurant's menu and encourage you to have a seat. Take your time and check out the menus of the restaurants that most interest you. My favorite has long been Plouf as I love mussels and fries. I also have had good meals at Brindisi, B44, and Taverna. I have not yet eaten at Trademark, which is relatively new. Most of the restaurants are open for lunch from Monday through Friday and for dinner from Monday through Saturday. Most are closed are Sunday. For each restaurant's hours, visit Belden Place's website. Belden Place runs between Bush and Pine Streets, just east of Kearny Street.

Peruvian Food in the Mission District

Peruvian food is quite popular in San Francisco and is easily found in San Francisco's Mission District. I fell in love with Peruvian food when I learned that French fries on rice is a staple. A true delight for a lover of carbohydrates.

A good, casual spot for lunch or dinner is Limón Rotisserie, sister restaurant to the more upscale Limón Restaurant. Here you can dine on an array of hold and cold small plates or barbecue chicken. We recently lunched here and had terrific ceviche, a nice green salad, lomito (a traditional stir-fry of steak, onions, peppers, and other spices that is served with fries), and tacu-tacu (Peruvian rice and bean balls). We accompanied our meal with reasonably priced wines by the glass. We saved a little room for dessert so shared a Mil Hojas (thousand leaves), a pastry with mango cream.

The Mission is a great part of San Francisco to visit. You can see interesting stores and lots of murals. So head out this way and stop by Limón Rotisserie for lunch. You'll find it at the corner of 21st Street and South Van Ness Avenue. If you want to take a private tour of San Francisco that includes a visit to the Mission District and lunch at Limón Rotisserie, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

A Walk for Shoppers

One of the favorite pastimes of visitors to San Francisco is shopping. Here's a walking route that combines two of the City's premier shopping districts, a breathtaking view, a house made famous by a Robin Williams movie, a bit of a workout, and a chance to lunch at a tasty, neighborhood restaurant.

Start your walk at the corner of Geary Blvd. and Fillmore Street. You can get here from Union Square by taxi or by taking the 38 Geary bus on Market Street. Before you start your walk, note the Fillmore Auditorium on the southwest corner of the intersection. The Grateful Dead, Janis Joplin, Jefferson Airplane, and other greats of rock and roll played here during the venue's heyday in the late 1960s. On the northwest corner, you'll see the Boom Boom Room, once owned by the famed bluesman John Lee Hooker. On the northeast corner are the Sundance Cinemas and Japan Center, which is home to Japanese stores and restaurants, as well as Kabuki Springs and Spa, where you can get a massage.

Now begin your walk by heading up the hill on Fillmore Street. You'll pass many boutiques, coffee houses, and restaurants. You can see a good listing on www.fillmoreshop.com. If you want to have lunch while strolling along Fillmore, try Pizzeria Delfina at 2406 California Street for great, thin-crust pizza. It's my favorite pizza in San Francisco.

The shopping district on Fillmore Street ends at Jackson Street. Walk two more blocks up Fillmore to Broadway for a great view of the Bay. Turn left on Broadway and walk down the hill to Steiner Street. On the southeast corner of Steiner and Broadway is Mrs. Doubtfire's house. This is the home where Robin Williams and Sally Fields lived in the film, "Mrs. Doubtfire."

Then turn right on Steiner and walk three blocks. You'll now be at the corner of Steiner and Union Streets and at the western end of the Union Street shopping district. Rose's Cafe on the northeast corner has good sandwiches, paninis, salads, and pizzas, and is a good lunch spot. Turn right on Union and you can begin strolling among more upscale shops, restaurants, and cafes. A good listing of shops is available at www.unionstreetshop.com. The commercial district ends at Union and Gough, where you will see the Octagon House on the southwest corner. This museum was formerly a home with eight sides. To return to the Union Square area, hop the 45 Union-Stockton bus.

Don't try doing this walk in reverse as you will find yourself walking up a very steep section of Fillmore or Steiner Street. If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes visits to Fillmore and Union Streets, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or at Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

The Inner Mission - Food

I recently wrote about some of the sights in the Inner Mission, one of San Francisco's vibrant neighborhoods. If you're a foody, you'll certainly want to head to the Inner Mission to sample some great food.

You could spend your entire visit eating on the block of 18th Street between Guerrero and Dolores Streets where you'll find Delfina Restaurant, Delfina Pizzeria, Bi-Rite Market, Bi-Rite Creamery, and Tartine Bakery. Delfina Restaurant is one of the best Italian restaurants in San Francisco. The Pizzeria has terrific, thin-crust pizza. Unfortunately, there's almost always a wait to get into the Pizzeria. Bi-Rite Market is home to more gourmet food products per square foot than just about anyplace on earth. The Creamery makes small lots of oh-so-tasty ice cream. Tartine produces some of San Francisco's best pastries. Here too, there is usually a line, and seating is limited.

Range is a small restaurant on Valencia Street producing some of the city's best American food. Little Star Pizza is another great spot for thin-crust pizza. Want to watch on old flick with your dinner? If so, visit Foreign Cinema on Mission Street. Never enjoyed south Indian cuisine? Try Dosa. The neighborhood is full of Taquerias and other small, ethnic places featuring food from Mexico, Central America, India and Pakistan, Thailand, Vietnam, Ethiopia, and China. Lastly, there's a coffee shop every 100 yards. For a local roast, try Ritual Coffee Roasters at 1026 Valencia Street.

If you'd like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to the Inner Mission, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or at Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

Fresh Seafood Near Monterey's Cannery Row

Recently a guest on a Monterey tour wanted to eat at a place like an East Coast seafood shack after visiting the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Unfortunately, such places are tough to find in Northern California and are nonexistent on the Monterey Peninsula, as far as I know.

Cannery Row has long been known as a very touristy strip of shopping centers selling T-shirts and other souvenirs. The area is not well known for good food. Zagat only lists a couple of restaurants near Cannery Row and neither of these had views or were open for lunch.

However, I found a seafood market, a couple of blocks from Cannery Row, that had a good review for its restaurant on Yelp. While my guests toured the Aquarium, I checked out the Sea Harvest Fish Market & Restaurant. It looked just like the type of place my guests wanted except that it doesn't have a view. We decided to give it a try at lunch and were not disappointed.

When you walk into the Sea Harvest, you'll see an array of fresh fillets lined up in the counter and lobsters swimming in a nearby tank. The decor is simple; lots of seafood posters and fish shaped cake pans and Jello molds. The food is simple, mostly grilled and fried fish. Four of us had grilled fish and all enjoyed perfectly done fish. You can order the grilled fish with rice, a vegetable, and cole slaw; over a Caesar Salad; or on a sandwich with fries. Fried fish comes with chips. We also had some barbecue oysters for a starter.

Next time you are visiting Cannery Row, skip the touristy places on the water and walk to 598 Foam Street for a fresh seafood lunch. If you would like to take a private tour of Monterey and Carmel that includes lunch at the Sea Harvest, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

Italian Food in North Beach & Pacific Heights

In my last post, I talked about the problem finding really good Italian food in North Beach. After my dining experiences over the last week, I feel even more strongly that the best, most innovative Italian food is not in North Beach.

We had dinner at Ristorante Ideale in North Beach, a restaurant we enjoyed many years ago but never returned to over the intervening years. I saw that it was still getting pretty good reviews, so we decided to give it a try again. The experience was quintessential North Beach -- mediocre service and food. When I asked the waiter about a wine on the list, he was clearly unfamiliar with the wines or unwilling to spend time talking with me. He just said that the wine I asked him about was good. This inattentiveness to service was matched when we ordered an appetizer of pear wrapped in prosciutto and marscapone. When the food arrived, the pear was a rock and had no taste. When we complained, the waiter said that the shipment of pears they received that day needed more time to ripen. We wondered why they just didn't tell us that the dish was not available. To their credit, they did not charge us for the appetizer.

The other extreme was SPQR on Fillmore Street in Pacific Heights. The menu is always interesting, but this month the restaurant is featuring wine and food from Calabria. Having never heard of the region, much less having tried the food, I was intrigued. We had wines from Calabria featuring varietals that were new to me. We had one of their regular antipastis -- fried brussels sprouts, which were a perfect combination of sweet, salty, and garlic flavors and a crispy texture. My main dish was from Calabria -- fettuccine with sardines, bread crumbs, and currants. An unusual combination, but it worked. My wife's strata of asparagus, pancetta, and bread was scrumptious.

These two restaurants present a perfect contrast -- a restaurant that tries and one that doesn't. It's no wonder that more visitors than locals frequent North Beach.

Dining in North Beach

North Beach is the old Italian section of San Francisco. Although the community is diverse today, North Beach is still home to many Italian restaurants and cafes. Strolling along Grant and Columbus Avenues is a fun way to spend a couple of hours. Lunching outside on a sunny day is a great San Francisco experience.

Many of my guests ask what are the best Italian restaurants in North Beach. I usually respond by saying that most of the restaurants in North Beach feature the traditional red sauce and pasta cuisine; that San Francisco's best Italian restaurants are not in North Beach. Of Zagat's top five rated Italian restaurants, none are in North Beach. None of the San Francisco Chronicle's top 20 rated Italian restaurants are in North Beach.

Nevertheless, visitors should spend some time in North Beach. For lunch, I usually take guests to Caffe Delucchi, at the corner of Columbus, Grant, and Green. Their paninis and salads are quite good. While I haven't had the pizzas and pastas, my guests have enjoyed them. Add some red wine and, if the sun is out, sit at one of the outside tables and watch the locals and tourists go by on Columbus Avenue.

Last weekend I dined at a relatively new restaurant in North Beach, Vicoletto. The staff was among the friendliest I've ever encountered. We were sold when we saw Burata on the appetizer menu. Both my wife and I are big fans of this very fresh, gooey cheese. We shared the cheese and a delicious eggplant and ground beef appetizer with friends. All of us enjoyed our main courses of pork rolled in parsley, braised short ribs, and pasta. Our tiramisu and pear tart were also quite yummy. The wine list includes many reasonably priced Italian wines. Our waiter, who previously sold wine, knew the list well. The only drawback, and this is a frequent complaint of mine, was the noise level. Vicoletto is at 550 Green Street. Reservations may be made by phoning 433-5800.

I also enjoy Trattoria Contadina, at the corner of Mason and Union Streets, for traditional red sauce and pasta fare. The restaurant is old school but what they do, they do well.

I would be remiss if I did not mention Albona, a restaurant on the border of North Beach and Fisherman's Wharf that features food from Istria. This peninsula was part of Italy prior to World War I and is now part of Croatia. While the food is heavily influenced by Italian cooking, it also has influences from Slovenia and Croatia. The cuisine is probably unlike any you have eaten, but is delicious. If you are an adventurous eater, I highly recommend Albona.

If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to North Beach, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (415) 337-1874 (toll free) or by clicking here.

Excellent Breakfast in North Beach

For nearly 50 years Mama's on Washington Square has been serving breakfast and lunch in North Beach. During the peak tourist season and on sunny, weekend days, a long line of hungry patrons stretches down Stockton Street.

To avoid the lines, visit Mama's on a weekday during the late fall or winter. That's exactly what I did earlier this week. I hadn't been to Mama's for over five years, so I figured it was time to see if the restaurant was as good as I remembered it. It was!

Mama's serves an array of egg dishes, a variety of freshly made French Toasts, and homemade baked goods. We had a chance to taste an omelette, corned beef hash, and a piece of coffee cake. All were excellent.

If you want a good breakfast with fresh ingredients, you won't find a better one than at Mama's. If you're visiting during the height of the tourist season, the trick to avoiding a long wait is to arrive right when Mama's opens at 8:00 a.m. Mama's stays open until 3:00 p.m. everyday except Monday, when it is closed. Mama's is located at 1701 Stockton Street, on the corner of Filbert.

Best Restaurants in San Francisco - 2008/2009

Over a year ago, I summarized the critics' picks of the best restaurants in San Francisco. With the release of the "2009 Zagat Guide" and the 2009 Michelin guide, I'll update the listings.

According to Zagat, the five most popular restaurants in the Bay Area are Gary Danko, Boulevard, The Slanted Door, The French Laundry (Yountville), and Michael Mina. The restaurants with the best food are The French Laundry (Yountville) and Cyrus (Healdsburg) with 29 points, and Gary Danko, Kaygetsu (Menlo Park), Quince, La Foret (San Jose), The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, and Sushi Ran (Sausalito) with 28 points.

The San Francisco Chronicle awards its highest rating, four stars, to eight restaurants: Chez Panisse (Berkeley), Coi, Cyrus (Healdsburg), French Laundry (Yountville), La Folie, Manresa (Los Gatos), Michael Mina, and The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton.

"Michelin San Francisco, Bay Area and Wine Country 2009" gives its highest rating of three stars to only one restaurant: The French Laundry in Yountville. The guide awards two stars to six restaurants: Aqua, Coi, Cyrus (Healdsburg), Manresa (Los Gatos), Meadowood (St. Helena), and Michael Mina.

As you can see the critics disagree more than they agree. The only restaurants near the top of all three lists are Cyrus, The French Laundry, and Michael Mina. Having eaten at all three, I wouldn't disagree.

(revised 10/16/2008)

Great Jazz Spot in San Francisco

After World War II, San Francisco had a vibrant jazz scene centered along Fillmore Street in the Western Addition. This all came to an end in the 1960s when the San Francisco Redevelopment Agency destroyed the neighborhood in the name of progress. Victorian homes were torn down and families displaced.

It took a long time for the neighborhood to come back. In recent years new condominiums and commercial spaces were built along the section of Fillmore Street just south of Japantown. To help reignite the old spirit, the Redevelopment Agency asked Yoshi's, the venerable Oakland Jazz Club, to open a club in what is now being called the Fillmore Jazz Preservation District.

In August, I had a chance to dine at Yoshi's restaurant and to take in three concerts at the club. I highly recommend both to visitors and locals. The restaurant has excellent Japanese-inspired cuisine. The staff knows that many diners will be taking in a show at the club and paces the service accordingly.

The club provides an intimate setting to hear nationally and internationally known acts. Yoshi's features a wide array of music including Jazz, funk, African music, and vocalists. Sushi, sashimi, and other Japanese appetizers can be munched on while you enjoy the show. Tickets may be purchased on the Yoshi's website. All seats are reserved. There's not a bad seat in the house.

Muir Beach Ovelook & Pelican Inn

On Muir Woods tours I frequently take my guests to the Muir Beach Overlook. This old army lookout is located just north of the village of Muir Beach off of Hwy. 1. A short walk out to the point overlooking the Pacific will reward you with panoramic views of the ocean from San Francisco to Point Reyes. Here is one of the best spots to witness the dramatic meeting of cliffs and ocean that is the northern California coastline. On really clear days you can see the Farallon Islands, which are about 25 miles offshore. Be forewarned that the Muir Beach Overlook is often fogged in during the summer. The sun can be shining at Muir Woods while the Overlook, which is about five miles away, is shrouded in fog.

You can combine a visit to the Overlook with lunch at the Pelican Inn in Muir Beach. This quaint bed and breakfast serves classic British food along with some American favorites. The pub has some great beers on tap, including cellar-temperature Guinness Stout. The Pelican Inn's restaurant is open for lunch daily. On Sundays freshly carved roast beef, ham, and turkey are served. The pub serves snacks and light food throughout the day.

If you would like to take a private tour that includes a visit to the Muir Beach Overlook and/or lunch at the Pelican Inn, please call me at (866) 326-4237 or e-mail me by clicking here. (The big scheduled tour operators do not include the Overlook on their tours.)

Lunch with a View on the Monterey Peninsula

As I have mentioned often, one of the rules of dining is the better the view, the worse the food. However, there are exceptions and one of them is the Stillwater Bar & Grill at The Lodge at Pebble Beach. This restaurant overlooks the 18th green and Carmel Bay at one of America's legendary golf courses.

The Pebble Beach Golf Links and The Lodge at Pebble Beach were founded in 1919. The Links has hosted the Bing Crosby National Pro-Am (now known as the AT&T Pebble Beach National Pro-Am) tournament since 1947. The U.S. Open has been held at Pebble Beach four times (1972, 1982, 1992, and 2000) and will be held here again in 2010.

The Stillwater Bar & Grill offers dinner daily, lunch from Monday to Saturday, and brunch on Sunday. The restaurant offers an array of entrees but emphasizes fresh seafood. A leisurely lunch while gazing out at Carmel Bay and watching golfers celebrating completion of their round of golf is a great way to spend a couple of hours. You can make a restaurant reservation by calling (831) 625-8524.

If you would like to take a private tour of Monterey and Carmel that includes lunch a stop at The Lodge at Pebble Beach, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Burmese Cuisine in San Francisco

One of the benefits of living in San Francisco is being able to sample food from around the world. While there are a few gaps, some quite major, it seems like we have restaurants featuring the cuisine of nearly every member of the United Nations.

Burma lies between India, Bangladesh, Thailand, and China. Its food tastes like a mixture of the flavors you find in its neighbors' cuisines. A wide assortment of curries are featured on Burmese menus. Many dishes make heavy use of coconut milk. Dried or pickled vegetables are quite common ingredients.

One of my favorite dishes is tea leaf salad, a mixture of preserved tea leaves, dried shrimp, chilies, peanuts, ginger, dried coconut, lime juice, and other spices. The taste is exotic, but one that I love. My wife is a big fan of Burmese curried chicken noodle soup. It's one of her favorite lunch dishes.

San Francisco is home to at least four Burmese restaurants. Two of my favorites are in the Richmond District. Mandalay Restaurant has been serving Burmese and Chinese food in the Inner Richmond District since 1984. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner.

Pagan Restaurant is a new restaurant in the Outer Richmond, at the corner of Clement and 33rd Avenue, near the Legion of Honor Museum. Since January, Pagan has been serving Thai and Burmese cuisine for lunch and dinner from Wednesday through Monday; closed on Tuesdays.

Both Pagan and Mandalay are reasonably priced and good places to take children if they like Asian food. The easiest way to get to either restaurant from Fisherman's Wharf or Union Square is by taxi.

If you'd like to sample Burmese cuisine on a full-day tour of San Francisco, please call me at (866) 326-4237 or e-mail me by clicking here to make a reservation.

Ocean View Restaurants in San Francisco

When you are out at the beach in San Francisco dining options are limited, particularly if you want a restaurant with a view. There are only two restaurants with ocean views: the Beach Chalet and the Cliff House.

The Beach Chalet sits at the western end of Golden Gate Park, across The Great Highway from the ocean. The building was designed by a famous local architect, Willis Polk, and opened in 1925. The first floor lobby houses murals and mosaics that were completed in 1936. The Beach Chalet makes its own beers, which are served in both of its restaurants. Upstairs is the Beach Chalet restaurant featuring typical bar food as well as American standards. The Park Chalet sits behind the main building with beautiful views of Golden Gate Park. The menu is the same for lunch and dinner and consists of a variety of small plates and a few other dishes. Weekend lunch and brunch are often crowded, so reservations are recommended at both restaurants. Getting a table on weekdays is easier, but a reservation, particularly at the Beach Chalet restaurant, can't hurt.

The Cliff House sits on a bluff overlooking the Pacific and Seal Rocks. This historic restaurant has undergone many changes throughout its storied history. The third incarnation was renovated a few years ago and is now home to two restaurants: the Bistro and Sutro's. The Bistro is a casual restaurant that offers omelettes, sandwiches, salads, and other casual meals. Reservations are not accepted so expect to wait on nice weekend days. Sutro's is the upscale restaurant at the Cliff House. It's menu has a variety of fish, poultry, and meat dishes. Sutro's accepts reservations, which are highly recommended.

Both the Beach Chalet are Cliff House are great places to lunch during Blue Heron's A Day in the City tour. If you would like to book a private half-day or full-day tour of San Francisco, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Restaurants with a View

There is an old axiom in the restaurant business -- the better the view the worse the food. I alluded to this in my May 2007 "Rick's Tips," when I listed the ten best places to eat outdoors.

Restaurateur Pat Kuleto is bucking this rule with his two new eateries along The Embarcadero: Epic Roasthouse and Waterbar. The restaurants sit aside each other on the bay side of The Embarcadero about a quarter of a mile south of the Ferry Building. Both are beautifully designed and offer fantastic views of San Francisco Bay, the Bay Bridge, and Yerba Buena and Treasure Islands.

Epic Roasthouse features steaks and other hearty meat dishes. Not being my favorite food, I probably won't dine here.

Waterbar, as you can probably tell from the name, is a seafood restaurant. Yesterday my wife and I lunched at Waterbar and both enjoyed our meals immensely. From the lobster salad, which we split to start the meal, to the cheeses with which we finished our meal, everything was good. Waterbar has an extensive oyster bar and my wife tasted one of each of the eight varieties being offered. I dined on superbly prepared scallops served over delicious kale and artisan bacon.

Waterbar has a good wine list with a nice selection of wines by the glass.

Prices are not cheap at either restaurant but, if you want a good meal with a nice water view, Waterbar (and probably Epic Roasthouse) will be as good as it gets in San Francisco.

Good Mexican Food in San Francisco

Having traveled a bit in Mexico, I know that Mexican cuisine consists of more than burritos and tacos. While San Francisco seems to have a taqueria on nearly every corner, finding high-quality Mexican food is tough.

This past weekend I had a chance to revisit Maya Restaurant after many years. There wasn't a burrito to be found on the menu. While we were able to get guacamole and chips, the quality is much higher than found in the taquerias. Entrees were sophisticated and well prepared. Each of us had something different: shrimp, chicken, hanger steak, and braised pork. Each of our meals contained a medley of ingredients and an appetizing presentation. It was nice to see food approaching, if not exceeding, some of the meals I'd had in Oaxaca and Guanajuato.

Maya's location, near the corner of 2nd and Folsom Streets, makes it a convenient place to dine for visitors staying near the Moscone Convention Center. Maya is open for lunch from Monday through Friday and for dinner daily. Reservations can be made by calling (415) 543-2928.

Two North Beach Institutions

It had been over 20 years since I last saw "Beach Blanket Babylon," the only-in-San Francisco cabaret that spoofs modern culture. With my parents visiting, I decided to see how the show was holding up.

Beach Blanket Babylon has been running for over 30 years, so I probably last saw it during its first decade. The theme remains the same; the story of Snow White's efforts to find true love. About one-third of the show looked familiar. However, the majority of songs and skits were new since I last saw the show. The performance was completely up-to-date. There was even a musical number spoofing Hillary Clinton crying the day before the New Hampshire primary.

The singing is still good and the costumes are still zany. The satire is wacky and the hats remain the biggest you'll ever see. At least two of the performers, Val Diamond and Renee Lubin, were in the show when I last saw it. If you've never seen Beach Blanket, then I highly recommend seeing it on your next visit to San Francisco. If you've been before, you'll get a good laugh if you go again.

Beach Blanket Babylon performs at the Club Fugazi, 687 Beach Blanket Babylon Blvd. (Green Street) in North Beach. Shows are at 8:00 p.m. on Wednesday and Thursday and 6:30 and 9:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Sunday matinées are at 2:00 and 5:00 p.m. and are the only performances that minors may attend.

While in North Beach, I decided to dine at another North Beach institution: North Beach Restaurant. I had never eaten here and figured, after living in San Francisco for 29 years, it was about time to give North Beach Restaurant a try. Walking into this restaurant was like time traveling back to the 1950s. Waiters were in tuxes and the menu looked like it hadn't changed since the restaurant first opened in 1970. While our waiter was very friendly and the food acceptable, I can't recommend dining at the North Beach Restaurant. There are far better Italian restaurants in San Francisco. Unfortunately, most of them are not in North Beach.

If you are planning a trip to San Francisco and want help planning your vacation, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Lunch in Sausalito

Thousands of tourists visit the bayside town of Sausalito. Visitors love the views and enjoy strolling among the shops and galleries. Most folks usually include a stop in Sausalito with a tour of Muir Woods or take the ferry over from San Francisco.

Since most tourists visit during the middle of the day, they want to eat lunch during their stay. Unfortunately, options are limited. There are a few extremely mediocre cafes, a good burger place, and a few restaurants that are worth mentioning.

Many people want to dine with a view of San Francisco Bay and the San Francisco skyline. After all, that's why they came to Sausalito. Unfortunately, the basic rule of the better the view, the worse the food seems to hold in Sausalito. There are three restaurants in central Sausalito that have great views: Scoma's, The Spinnaker, and Horizons. All three restaurants feature seafood. I only have first-hand experience at Scoma's, where I believe the food is nothing better than acceptable. Some of my guests have eaten at Spinnaker, with a couple reporting excellent food and others saying the food was horrible. I have yet to talk with anyone who has eaten at Horizons. Only Scoma's is Zagat rated.

In central Sausalito, my favorite restaurant is Poggio, which features Italian food. Unfortunately, there is no view from the restaurant, but you can dine outside overlooking the street. Angelino's also has decent Italian fare. The Salsalito Taco Shop, 1115 Bridgeway, has good Cal/Mex food with outdoor dining.

My favorite restaurant in Sausalito is Fish, which features the freshest of local seafood. Located in the docks north of the town center, Fish is hard for visitors to get to. However, if you have biked to Sausalito, you can easily get to Fish if you travel about a mile north of the town center and turn right on Harbor Drive. At Fish, you can eat outside at picnic tables that overlook Richardson Bay. If you visit Fish, bring cash as it does not accept credit cards.

If you would like to take a San Francisco or Muir Woods private tour that includes a visit to Sausalito, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Dim Sum and Murals

One of my favorite places for dim sum is Yank Sing. If you are not familiar with these delicious dumplings, include a dim sum lunch in your next visit to San Francisco. Dim Sim were originally served only to Chinese royalty. When the emperor moved south to Canton (Guandong) in the 13th century, dim sum went with him. Eventually, Canton became famous as the best place in China for dim sum.

Yang Sing is consistently rated as one of the best dim sum places in San Francisco. There are two locations, but I prefer the restaurant in Rincon Center at 101 Spear Street. This shopping arcade and office was built in 1939 in classic art deco style and served as the Rincon Annex Post Office. Today the building has been expanded and modernized. However, the beautiful murals depicting California's history remain. Russian immigrant artist, Anton Refregier, started painting in 1941 but suspended work during World War II. In 1946, Refregier began painting again and completed the murals in 1948.

Another unique feature is the "Rain Column" in the central atrium, just outside Yank Sing's entrance. This floor-to-ceiling water sculpture features 55 gallons of water falling 85 feet every minute.

Stop by Rincon Center on your next visit to see the murals and to east some of the best dim sum outside of China. If you would like to visit Rincon Center as part of a private tour of San Francisco, call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Breakfast in Dogpatch

Dogpatch is far from the usual tourist haunts. In fact, most locals never visit this part of San Francisco. Nestled between Potrero Hill and the southern waterfront, Dogpatch long was home to businesses servicing the port and its workers. Today this is changing. The port has long been in decline. Reasonable rents (by San Francisco standards) and sunny skies are luring new residents into the area. Now, the new Third Street Muni Metro (T Line) makes it easier to travel between Dogpatch and downtown.

I'd read about the tasty breakfasts at the Just for You Cafe so decided to head their yesterday. I knew I'd like the place when I saw the sign in the window, "We reserve the right to pour coffee on your cell phone." The decor is minimalist -- just some San Francisco-themed posters covering the walls.

But the food is quite good. I enjoy a Hangtown Fry, and Just for You makes a tasty one. For those of you unfamiliar with this Northern California delicacy, a Hangtown Fry is eggs scrambled with oysters, bacon, and onion.

This concoction supposedly got its name during the Gold Rush. Prospectors who wanted to show off their new-found wealth would order delicacies at restaurants. Oysters were not too common in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada and, thus, were quite pricey. What better way to tell the world that you had struck it rich than to order an omelet with oysters. Hangtown was one of the principal towns in the central Mother Lode. Miners would come into town to buy supplies, have some fun, and show off any earnings. If you've not heard of Hangtown, it's now known as Placerville. The genteel citizens changed the name of their home town many years ago as they thought that naming the town after the nearby gold (placers), rather than their penchant for hanging folks, would be better PR.

But back to the Just for You Cafe. Beignets are a specialty of the house. We didn't have one on our visit, but they looked tasty. The menu also includes Mexican-influenced breakfasts such as a huevos rancheros and breakfast burritos, many egg dishes, and an assortment of pancakes.

Just for You is also open for lunch, so you could eat here and then walk to see the Giants play in China Basin.

The cafe is located at 732 22nd Street, just east of Third Street. The Dogpatch Muni Metro stop is at 20th Street. Just for You is open from 7:30 a.m. until 3:00 p.m. on weekdays and from 8:00 a.m. on weekends. We walked right in yesterday, but expect to wait on weekends.

Good Food on the Way to Muir Woods

If you are driving to Muir Woods and want to stop for breakfast or lunch along the way, the Dipsea Cafe is the perfect spot. The Dipsea serves some of the best breakfasts in the Bay Area. It's convenient location on Route 1 (200 Shoreline Hwy. in Mill Valley), makes the Dipsea a great place to stop for folks heading to Muir Woods in the morning.

Breakfast options at the Dipsea include a wide array of omelettes, egg dishes, pancakes, and specialties. Be sure to ask for a biscuit with your breakfast. You won't be disappointed.

If you're passing the Dipsea on your way back to San Francisco from Muir Woods, you can enjoy breakfast until 3:00 p.m. If you prefer lunch, the menu includes excellent sandwiches, salads, and other items.

The Dipsea is on the right side of Route 1, about 1/3 of a mile past the exit of US 101. The restaurant is located next to a canal and outside seating is available. (If you come to the traffic light where Route 1 turns left, you have gone too far.)

If you would like to take a private tour to Muir Woods that includes a stop at the Dipsea, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Dining in Glen Park

One of the things that makes San Francisco a great place to live is the number of high quality restaurants found throughout the city. It's nice to be able to have a good meal out without the fuss of going downtown.

Unfortunately, my neighborhood -- the Sunnyside -- continues to be a culinary wasteland. We've got a few mediocre Chinese joints and one bad pizza place. The next neighborhood, Glen Park, was only marginally better for many years. It had a couple of decent breakfast places, but not much else. Then a few years ago, Chenery Park opened. This restaurant serves very good American food in a casual setting. Tuesdays are kids nights, when families with children are welcomed.

A couple of months ago, the dumpy, old pizza place in Glen Park closed. The storefront was transformed, and Gialina Pizzeria opened. This new restaurant makes some of the best thin-crust pizza in San Francisco.

Finally, two weeks ago Le P'tit Laurent, a casual and very reasonably priced French restaurant opened. Owned by Laurent Legendre, formerly co-owner of Clementine in the Richmond District , Le P'tit Laurent offers French classics at a good price. In addition, the wine list contains many good wines with prices under $40/bottle.

More restaurants may be coming to Glen Park, including a sushi restaurant that has been in the planning process for a couple of years.

There is one downside to this growth of restaurants in Glen Park. The neighborhood is so desperate for good food that Gialina Pizzeria and Le P'tit Laurent are constantly packed. I suggest making a reservation if you want to dine at either place.

If you are visiting San Francisco and want to visit one of these neighborhood restaurants, Glen Park is on the BART system. It's a ten minute ride from the Powell Street station to Glen Park. The three restaurants are within two blocks of the Glen Park BART station.

Now, if some good restaurants open in the Sunnyside, I'll be a happy man. Perhaps the new Japanese restaurant will start a trend when it opens.

San Francisco's Best Restaurant

San Francisco is one of the best eating towns in the country. With over 3,000 restaurants, San Francisco is said to have more restaurants per capita than any city in the United States. San Franciscans talk about restaurant openings and closings like Bostonians talk about the fate of their beloved Red Sox.

One of the questions I frequently get on tour is, "What are the best restaurants in San Francisco?" Of course, the answer is subjective. My long-time favorite is Restaurant Gary Danko. However, I recently ate at Michael Mina and feel that it is a close second to Danko.

The "Michelin Red Guide 2007 San Francisco" gives two stars to only two restaurants in San Francisco: Michael Mina and Aqua. (Michelin reserves its top rating of three stars to only one restaurant -- The French Laundry in Yountville in the Napa Valley.)

The "2007 Zagat Guide's" top-rated restaurant in San Francisco is Gary Danko, which receives 29 points for its food. Fleur de Lys, La Folie, Michael Mina., Little Star Pizza, The Dining Room at The Ritz-Carlton, Quince, Masa's, Boulevard, Coi, and Tartine Bakery are all tied with 27 points. Aqua is one of many restaurants with 26 points.

The "San Francisco Chronicle's" top rating is four stars. Only three San Francisco restaurants get top marks from our local daily: Fleur de Lys, La Folie, and The Dining Room at The Ritz-Carlton. Aqua and Gary Danko get just 3.5 stars.

So what's the best restaurant in San Francisco? Come visit and pick your favorite. If you want some help planning your visit, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

A Fix for Chocoholics

Chocoholics can have a field day in San Francisco. Bakeries offer great chocolate pastries and cakes. There are a number of confectioners producing superb chocolate candies. One of my favorites is XOX Truffles in North Beach. This small shop produces over 20 different flavors of truffles. These are not the large, cream-filled truffles that we usually see. Rather, XOX produces small, bite-sized morsels. One or two of these rich, creamy delights is enough to keep any chocoholic happy for the day.

Truffles are sold individually or by weight. XOX is located at 754 Columbus Avenue, between Filbert and Greenwich Streets in North Beach. The shop is open from 9:00 a.m. until 6:00 p.m. form Monday through Saturday. On Sunday, hours are 10:30 a.m. until 6:00 p.m.

If you would like to take a chocolate tour of San Francisco that focuses on the city's many purveyors of wonderful pastries and candies, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Mecca for Foodies

San Francisco has always been a mecca for food aficionados. With a predominately male population during the Gold Rush, restaurants began cropping up to serve the many men who were clueless in the kitchen. Today San Francisco has over 3,000 restaurants. That's a lot for a city with just 750,000 residents.

In addition to the many restaurants, there are numerous stores to buy great produce, meats, and other foods. However, no place compares to the Marketplace at San Francisco's Ferry Building. Here you will find more purveyors of fine food than any place in the city.

People who love sweets will want to visit Scharfen Berger Chocolate Maker, Recchiuti Confections for divine truffles, and Miete Patisserie.

If you want to pick up bread, cheese, and wine for a picnic lunch, stop by Acme Bread Company, Cowgirl Creamery, and Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant. Acme is a local bakery that makes a variety of excellent breads. Cowgirl makes its own cheese and sells artisan cheeses from around the world. Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant has a large selection of wines from California and all over the world. They also have a nice tasting bar where you can sit down to have wine and cheese with friends.

Taylor's Automatic Refresher has great burgers, fries, and shakes, as well as a wine list.

I'm a big oyster fan. So I love sitting outside at Hog Island Oyster and lunching on raw oysters paired with a Sauvignon Blanc.

The list goes on and on.

On Tuesdays and Saturdays the permanent stores and restaurants are augmented by a large farmer's market. The Saturday market is the bigger of the two and runs from 8:00 a.m. until 2:00 p.m. The Tuesday market's hours are 10:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m. If you visit on Saturday, have breakfast at the market. During the summer, there is a market on Thursday evenings.

The Ferry Building is one of the few spots in San Francisco where locals and tourists mix in large numbers. Don't miss it on your next visit. If you want to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to the Ferry Building, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Restaurant Wines Starting at $25/Bottle

I seldom want to spend over $50 for a bottle of wine when I dine out. On a special occasion, that's OK. However, for a casual but nice dinner out, that's often too much. Increasingly I am leaving restaurants with my budget out of whack because of wine prices. So I was most pleased when I dined at Myth Restaurant last month and saw that they feature a selection of wines for $25/bottle or less. Plus there were a good number of wines in the $25 - $50 per bottle price range. More importantly, the wines weren't losers. We had nice Italian wine for $25 and a French wine from the Rhone River Valley for about $35.

Good wine alone does not make for a nice dinner out. But Myth's California/French menu does not disappoint. My group had an array of small plates plus one or two large plates. Everything was tasty.

I had been wanting to dine at Myth since the day it opened. I am glad I finally visited the restaurant. Weekend reservations can be tough, so try to book ahead of time. Myth may be reached at (415) 677-8986. The restaurant is at 470 Pacific Avenue, between Sansome and Montgomery. You can probably find nearby street parking after 6:00 p.m.

Good Seafood with an Ocean View

Finally there is a restaurant with seafood that's as good as the view. Sam's Chowder House in Half Moon Bay has top notch food along with nice views of the Pacific Ocean.

I had heard about the planning for this restaurant for many months but had missed news of its opening. Earlier this week, my wife and I had the opportunity to dine at Sam's. We are both East Coast natives, with West Coast sensibilities, who are picky about our seafood.

Upon arrival, we immediately noticed that Sam's has the ambiance of an East Coast seafood joint: nothing fancy and a bar with sports on the big screens. However, being on the West Coast, Sam's has a good wine list and some microbrews on tap. In addition, the menu tells you that Sam's "do(es) not thicken their chowders with tons of flour," fries their food in "cholesterol- and trans-fat-free vegetable oil," and "serves sustainably-fished seafood whenever possible and practical."

The real test, though, is the taste of the food; and we gave Sam's a tough test. My wife summered in Maine and is extremely picky about lobster rolls. I am a native of Baltimore and am the same way about crab cakes. We both felt that Sam's serves the best lobster rolls and crab cakes in the Bay Area. My wife believes a good lobster roll has three ingredients: fresh lobster, butter, and a roll. Sam's serves the mayonnaise on the side for those who prefer a little dressing on their roll and adds a fourth ingredient -- celery. For me, crab cakes should be all crab with just a little binder to hold the meat together. Sam's crab cakes passed the test but, not unexpectedly, are made with Dungeness Crab rather than my favorite Blue Crab. Excellent coleslaw accompanied both dishes. The crab cakes came with fresh, thin-cut fries and the lobster roll with house-made potato chips.

I highly recommend a visit to Sam's. On a nice day, dine outside so you can watch the waves while you eat. Sam's Chowder House is located on Highway 1, just south of Princeton Harbor. To make a reservation call (650) 712-0245. More information may be found at www.SamsChowderHouse.com.

Chinatown and North Beach Restaurants

I frequently get asked for recommendations for dinner in both Chinatown and North Beach. In Chinatown, I have long recommended the R and G Lounge at 631 Kearny Street (between Clay and Sacramento Streets). However, many of my guests and many concierges have praised the Oriental Pearl at 760 Clay Street (between Grant Avenue and Kearny Street). I recently checked it out and will definitely include it among my Chinatown recommendations. Every dish we ordered was quite good, particularly the Peking Duck. Plus the service was friendly and informative. When you are in Chinatown, you will dine well at either the R and G or the Oriental Pearl.

In North Beach, I am harder pressed to name good restaurants. There are some that are good, like Calzones and Caffe DeLucchi on Columbus, but nothing exceptional. Recently some guests and friends recommended Trattoria Contadina on the corner of Mason and Union Streets. This past weekend we gave it a try. All of us enjoyed our meals, which consisted of well prepared typical San Francisco Italian fare. Trattoria Contadina's meals are not as refined as the Italian restaurants I have recently written about. However, the food is good and, if you are in North Beach, you won't go wrong by dining here.

If you would like to take a San Francisco tour that inclcudes visits to North Beach and Chinatown, please call me at (866) 326-4237 or e-mail me by clicking here.

Escape to Elk Update

Two years ago, "Rick's Tips," Blue Heron's free, quarterly newsletter of fun things to do in the Bay Area, focused on Elk, California. Elk is located about three hours north of San Francisco and overlooks a spectacular cove on the California Coast.

Recently we returned to Elk and found many things unchanged, along with a few changes. The spot is still lovely -- we had sunny skies and 70 degree weather. There is still little to do in town other than walk on the beach and sit on a chair overlooking the cove and watch the waves crash. Ledford House in Albion still breaks the rule that the better the view, the worse the view. Lisa Geer's food is still delicious. Service is friendly. Watching the sun slowly set while nursing a glass of wine is an experience that can't be beat.

Sandpiper House Inn appears to have gone out of business, at least temporarily house. Griffin House Inn has remodeled its cottages.

Mendocino, the coastside village about 30 minutes north of Elk, still has some interesting shops and galleries. There were a few newcomers, but many of the shops have been there for as long as we can remember.

The Point Cabrillo Lighthouse, 2 miles north of Mendocino, has been restored and is open to the public daily from 11:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. A bed and breakfast will open any day in one of the restored lightkeeper houses.

If you are interested in a custom-designed vacation along the spectacular Sonoma and Mendocino coasts, call (866) 326-4237 (toll free). I would be pleased to work with you to plan a vacation that you are sure to enjoy.

Italian Food One Last Time - For Awhile

Over the past few weeks I had the chance to dine at two more Italian restaurants. (Yes I've been on an Italian kick and I need to move on.)

The first, A16, has gotten rave reviews. I concur. Excellent wine list. Superb first courses; although, the grilled fava beans in the pod did not work. Terrific thin crust pizzas. We were pleasantly surprised that the restaurant was not overwhelmingly loud. I highly recommend A16. It's just too bad that reservations are usually needed as this would be a great place to just drop in on the spur of the moment. For visitors to San Francisco, A16 is very convenient if you are staying on motel row on Lombard Street. Otherwise, you'll need to take a taxi from Union Square or Fisherman's Wharf to get here.

The second, Vivande Porta Via, is a restaurant in Pacific Heights that we frequented with some regularity a few years back. Then we just drifted away for no particular reason. While the pastas we had were all good, they were not terrific. The appetizers were tasty, but not as finely prepared as A16's. I still recommend Vivande for those who find themselves on Fillmore Street, but it is not worth traveling from downtown to get here.

"Zagat" lists the following San Francisco Italian restaurants as their tops for food: Quince, Acquerello, Delfina, Tommaso's, Albona, Sociale, Incanto, Pesce, Antica Trattoria, Venticello, Ristorante Bacco, A16, and Parma. (The last 5 are tied with 23 points.) I have been to all in recent years except Tommaso's, a pizza joint in North Beach that I have not been to in years, and Parma, which I have never visited. I have no qualms with the list; although, I might reorder it. What I find interesting about the list is that only Tommaso's is in North Beach - San Francisco's Italian neighborhood - and only A16 and Tommasos feature food from the south of Italy.

So this is the last word on Italian food in San Francisco for awhile. Maybe I'll summarize French restaurants in the near future.

If you want to take a private, custom tour of San Francisco that visits the neighborhoods where these restaurants are located, call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Best Italian Restaurant in San Francisco

Over the years, I have eaten at many of the Italian restaurants in San Francisco. But I never made it to Acquerello, an extremely well-reviewed restaurant in Polk Gulch. Last Saturday night I did.

Acquerello is definitely, in my opinion, the best Italian restaurant in the City. Of course, you pay for it. Dinner for two, including tax and gratuity, was $200.

Nowhere on the menu is pasta with red sauce, so you need to think of Italian cuisine in the same light as upscale French cuisine. The extensive list of Italian and California wines will certainly contain one or more wines you will enjoy.

I had the five-course tasting menu and my wife picked from the regular menu. From the "Chef's Surprise" of an asparagus soup, through the sea bass carpaccio, raviolis, guinea hen, and semifreddo, everything was superb. Each course was paired with an interesting Italian wine. I have gotten into dessert wines over the past year or so, and particularly enjoyed the Muscato di Asti. My wife had the freshest mozzarella we have ever tasted. It was air expressed from southern Italy directly to the restaurant. Her duck was delicious. Since she had three fewer courses than I did, our friendly and knowledgeable server brought her a "Chef's Surprise". We were able to share the pasta and dessert courses so she didn't feel too left out.

Acquerello is located at 1722 Sacramento Street (between Polk and Van Ness). The restaurant is open nightly, except Sunday and Monday. Reservations may be made by calling (415) 567-5432 or though Open Table.

Wine and Food in SOMA

I wanted to go to Bacar, a well-reviewed restaurant South of Market, ever since it opened a couple of years ago. I put off visiting because I feared the restaurant would be overly loud with its nightly (except Sundays) live music. The perfect opportunity presented itself when we decided to see a show at the Golden Gate Theater and wanted to dine beforehand.

When we arrived at Bacar, we found a bright, open space with light coming in through the windows and skylights. As we were dining early, the restaurant was not crowded and music would not begin for a few hours. The food is described as Northern California cuisine. However, the menu takes its inspiration from France with foie gras flan and duck confit; Italy with risotto and woodburning-oven baked pizzas, as well as California with mesquite grilled mahi mahi and jumbo artichokes. We ordered a nice, lightly dressed salad of lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, and bacon; excellent duck confit and pan roasted prawns; and a yummy chocolate mousse.

Bacar features an extensive list of wines by the bottle and the glass. For the latter, pours are offered in 2 oz., glass, 250 ml, and 500 ml sizes. Flights of three to four two-ounce pours are included in each of the wine categories.

We enjoyed our time at Bacar and highly recommend it. As for the noise, it was no problem while we were there. The waiter advised us that, once the jazz starts, the bar and front of the restaurant are noisy, with the tables in the back being the quietest.

Bacar is located at 448 Brannan Street (between Third and Fourth Streets). Reservations may be made by calling (415) 904-4100.

Excellent Italian Fare in Noe Valley

I go back and forth between my love for Italian and French food. I've been on a bit of Italian binge recently and revisited a favorite in Noe Valley - Incanto. This isn't your typical North Beach red sauce and pasta place. Rather, here you get interesting Italian-influenced California food featuring the freshest of ingredients. On the day we visited, the menu featured many "leftovers" from the restaurant's annual "Whole Beast Dinner." While duck tongue was too much for my fairly adventuresome palate, we did enjoy the Antipasto platter that featured house-cured meats. I also enjoyed the nettle papparedelle, which must be in season now as they were also included on Sociale's menu, which I discussed in a recent posting. Incanto's menu changes daily, so you are always in for a new treat no matter how often you visit.

Incanto also has a terrific list of Italian wines, as well as knowledgeable staff who can direct you to wines you are likely to enjoy. On my first visit, I said that we enjoyed Sauvignon Blanc and was directed to our first wine made from the Greco varietal. This time I told our waiter that we enjoyed medium to full bodied red wines with soft tanins He suggest we try a wine that is equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Nero d'Avola. (The latter was a varietal that I had never heard of, much less tasted, before.) Again the waiter's suggestion was perfect.

Incanto is located at 1550 Church Street. Dinner is served nightly, except on Tuesday. Reservations may be made by phoning (415) 641-4500.

If you would like to take a tour of San Francisco that visits neighborhoods, such as Noe Valley, that are not on the usual tourist route, call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Italian Food in Laurel Heights

Last minute plans found us dining with friends at Sociale Restaurant in Laurel Heights last Saturday night. This small neighborhood gem is found in a courtyard at 3655 Sacramento Street. Both indoor and outdoor dining are offered.

Sociale features Italian fare with a California accent. While we had to wait to be seated for 30 minutes beyond our scheduled reservation when earlier guests lingered, the staff at Sociale more than made up for the delay by offering us glasses of Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) and two appetizers on the house. We particularly enjoyed the deep fried olives.

We all had salads to start the meal. Two of us had delicious pasta with duck. One of my friends had nettle filled ravioli. I had never tried nettle, which is a green similar in taste to mint. Desserts included tasty goat cheese cake and panna cotta.

In addition to the Prosecco we enjoyed an Acorn Winery Dolcetto. Acorn is a small family-run winery in the Russian River Valley.

Call (415) 931-3200 to make a reservation at Sociale. Winetasting at Acorn is by appointment only. Take one of our Hidden Vineyards Tours and we can include a stop at Acorn. Tour reservations may be made by calling (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mailing me by clicking here.